Fit Problem: Center gore floats off the chest

The short answer: Cup volume too small, band too loose, or a close-set shape meeting a tall gore. First try a cup letter up. If the gore still floats, choose plunge styles with a lower gore that can sit flat between close-set tissue.

The center gore, the panel between the cups, should rest flat against your sternum; fitters call it tacking. A floating gore means the cups are being held away from your body, and the distance it floats is roughly the volume your cups are missing. One finger of float often closes with one cup letter; a gore that stands fully away usually needs both a cup up and a band check, since a loose band lets the whole frame drift forward.

Close-set breasts change the rules: when there is simply no flat sternum space between the roots, a tall gore physically cannot tack, whatever the size. That is a style problem with a style solution, plunge cuts whose low gores fit between close-set roots and tack where tall gores never will.

Soft tissue adds a nuance: on very soft breasts the gore may rest lightly rather than press firm, and light, stable contact through movement counts as tacking. Judge after scooping, standing tall, with straps at light tension.